Womenswear Portfolio — Kate Armstrong

Vanishing Point

Autumn / Winter

About this collection

Look 1: The ‘Crystal Visions’ dress with the finely painted roses and glittering straps. — **Look 1:** The ‘Crystal Visions’ dress with the finely painted roses and glittering straps.

This story begins with the investigation of the Victorian era of fashion, particularly the details and the shapes. The silhouettes give a voluminous and decadent feel. Romantic and fluid fabrics teamed with heavier winter pieces bring elements of function and utility. Featured throughout are embroideries, laces and hand painted fabrics.

This collection takes on influence from both texture and color. Autumnal hues inspired by Vietnamese silk weaving and Irving Penn’s photographic series of flowers, give a strong color palette to work with and bring together the collection. The color cues come from browns, sky blues and nude, with pops of vermillion and lilac, give the collections a sultry quality.

Hand worked viscose yarns crafted into delicate dresses give a modern and sensual ambiance. The ‘Crystal Visions’ dress offers a new perspective for occasion dressing with the finely painted roses and the glittering straps.

The garments are both elegant and ethereal, and the perfect solutions to winter occasion dressing. The attention to detail and fabrication elevate the collection.

Inspiration & Key Shapes

Irving Penn - Botanical Litho Plate, c.1980

Evelyn Tripp in Elizabeth Arden - photo by Richard Avedon,1952

Anna Held from a production of “The Little Duchess”c.1901

Key shapes:

Romantic and fluid fabrics teamed with heavier winter pieces bring elements of function and utility. The color cues come from browns, sky blues and nude, with pops of vermillion and lilac, give the collections a sultry quality.

Benedetta Barzini photo by Bert Stern - Novita’ February 1965

Croquis

Selected Tech Drawings

Victoria Is My Queen Blouse - Cropped blouse with extra full sleeves and shirring at upper sleeve. Thick contrast cross stitch detail at cuff and neckline. — *Victoria Is My Queen Blouse* - Cropped blouse with extra full sleeves and shirring at upper sleeve. Thick contrast cross stitch detail at cuff and neckline.

Crystal Visions Dress - Silk rose printed midi dress with embellished shoulder straps. Hi lo skirt with deep 12cm double layer hem. — *Crystal Visions Dress* - Silk rose printed midi dress with embellished shoulder straps. Hi lo skirt with deep 12cm double layer hem.

Tucked Away Cropped Shirt - Silk shirt with drop shoulder and tucked sleeves. Crystal embellishment at cuff. Darts at hem to create shaping. — *Tucked Away Cropped Shirt* - Silk shirt with drop shoulder and tucked sleeves. Crystal embellishment at cuff. Darts at hem to create shaping.

It’s a Wrap Skirt - Silky viscose drape skirt in red with knotted front detail and tucked around waistband. — *It’s a Wrap Skirt* - Silky viscose drape skirt in red with knotted front detail and tucked around waistband.

Fringe Fantasy Dress - Woven silk fringed dress with side split and low square back. Full braclet length sleeve with fringing. — *Fringe Fantasy Dress -* Woven silk fringed dress with side split and low square back. Full braclet length sleeve with fringing.

Button Me Up Bralet- Lace bralet to have roulette loops and mother of pearl buttons at center front as fastening. — *Button Me Up Bralet*- Lace bralet to have roulette loops and mother of pearl buttons at center front as fastening.

The Space Between Slip Dress - Float stitch knitted slip dress with 1.2cm wide straps and a low dip back. To be maxi length. — *The Space Between Slip Dress* - Float stitch knitted slip dress with 1.2cm wide straps and a low dip back. To be maxi length.

Dream On Dreamer Coat - Wool and Alpaca overcoat with slightly flared sleeves and exaggerated oversized collar. Self fabric belt tie. Fully lined in rose printed silk satin. — *Dream On Dreamer Coat* - Wool and Alpaca overcoat with slightly flared sleeves and exaggerated oversized collar. Self fabric belt tie. Fully lined in rose printed silk satin.

Short and Sweet Blouse - Puff and tuck sleeve cropped blouse with high frill neck. Darts at hem to create shaping. — *Short and Sweet Blouse* - Puff and tuck sleeve cropped blouse with high frill neck. Darts at hem to create shaping.

On The Isle

Spring / Summer

About this collection

Look 1: Don’t Do Me Like That Dress - Layered silk pleated dress. With off the shoulder sleeves. Bodice to have boning through bust point to waist. To have a wrap around sash that ties at center back. — **Look 1:** *Don’t Do Me Like That Dress* - Layered silk pleated dress. With off the shoulder sleeves. Bodice to have boning through bust point to waist. To have a wrap around sash that ties at center back.

Celebrating confidence and femininity, this collection takes inspiration from life by the sea. Particularly, the allure of the 70’s silhouettes and the effortlessly sexy feel in seaside towns along the Cote d’Azur. Influence was also drawn from Gauguin’s Tahitian paintings and the escapist quality to them, as well as the beautiful color combinations.

Found throughout the collection are hand drawn airy florals, weightless dresses, tailoring and laces displaying a natural ease synonymous with life by the sea. With a spectrum of vibrant fuchsia, pinks, ivory, light khaki with a hint of lilac the collection conjures thoughts of summer.

Hand woven floral jacquards and denims bring structure to the collection and offer an alternative to the light summery dresses. The attention to detail adds value to the garments.

The garments are functional and elegant, and offer a new perspective to summer dressing.

Inspiration & Key Shapes

Anjelica Huston in a Donald Brooks shirtdress for Vogue, 1973

Anjelica Huston, Jean Jacques Bugat 1972

Key shapes:

Airy florals, weightless dresses, tailoring and laces. With a spectrum of vibrant fuchsia, pinks, ivory, light khaki and a hint of lilac the collection conjures thoughts of summer.

Mirella Petteni, Gian Paolo Barbieri ,1968.

Calvin Klein’s Resort Spring Collection, 1977

Croquis

Selected Tech Drawings

Just Dance Top - Tie front off the shoulder ballet top. Low dip back and wrap around tie belt to be looped twice around body and tied at center front. — *Just Dance Top* - Tie front off the shoulder ballet top. Low dip back and wrap around tie belt to be looped twice around body and tied at center front.

Hot In The City Dress - Lightweight chiffon dress printed with hand drawn floral design. Double channel drawstring at hem and at shoulder. Midi length dress with hi lo hem. — *Hot In The City Dress -* Lightweight chiffon dress printed with hand drawn floral design. Double channel drawstring at hem and at shoulder. Midi length dress with hi lo hem.

Listen To Her Top - Silk pleated peplum top with fitted bustier and silk straps. To be fitted around bustand waist. Fastening to be odd covered buttons and roulette loops. — *Listen To Her Top* - Silk pleated peplum top with fitted bustier and silk straps. To be fitted around bustand waist. Fastening to be odd covered buttons and roulette loops.

So Good, So Right Cropped Jacket - Washed cotton cropped jacket. Raglan sleeve with flare a cuff. Stitch detail at collar, storm flap and cuff. — *So Good, So Right Cropped Jacket* - Washed cotton cropped jacket. Raglan sleeve with flare a cuff. Stitch detail at collar, storm flap and cuff.

I Never Learn Jeans - High waisted white denim jeans. Run and fell side seam and double stitch at pockets in golden thread colour. Brushed silver shank 15mm and copper metal 0.8mm rivets. — *I Never Learn Jeans* - High waisted white denim jeans. Run and fell side seam and double stitch at pockets in golden thread colour. Brushed silver shank 15mm and copper metal 0.8mm rivets.

Don’t Do Me Like That Dress - Layered silk pleated dress. With off the shoulder sleeves. Bodice to have boning through bust point to waist. To have a wrap around sash that ties at center back. — *Don’t Do Me Like That Dress* - Layered silk pleated dress. With off the shoulder sleeves. Bodice to have boning through bust point to waist. To have a wrap around sash that ties at center back.

Whatever You’re Looking For Jewelled Jacket - Boxy jacket with slightly flared sleeve and centre front zip fastening. Collar to have embellishments. — *Whatever You’re Looking For Jewelled Jacket* - Boxy jacket with slightly flared sleeve and centre front zip fastening. Collar to have embellishments.

Shake It Dress - Drawstring silk smock dress. Double channel drawstring at hem and at shoulder. Midi length dress with hi lo hem. Made from light weight silk chiffon. — *Shake It Dress* - Drawstring silk smock dress. Double channel drawstring at hem and at shoulder. Midi length dress with hi lo hem. Made from light weight silk chiffon.

Dancing With Myself Skirt - Cotton stripe waisted midi skirt with channel drawstring at yoke. Yoke at front to be 20cm down from high hip. Embroidery on yoke with glass beads. Fullness at hem. — *Dancing With Myself Skirt* - Cotton stripe waisted midi skirt with channel drawstring at yoke. Yoke at front to be 20cm down from high hip. Embroidery on yoke with glass beads. Fullness at hem.

All Or Nothing Skirt - Full length skirt floral jacquard skirt. Fitted through waist and lower body, hi lo hem. Fullness at hem with silk grosgrain facing at hem. Skirt to be fully lined in silk satin reverse. — *All Or Nothing Skirt -* Full length skirt floral jacquard skirt. Fitted through waist and lower body, hi lo hem. Fullness at hem with silk grosgrain facing at hem. Skirt to be fully lined in silk satin reverse.

Orange Colored Sky

Autumn / Winter

About this collection

Look 1: Leather trench with brushed silver trims with cut and sew button through bodice midi dress. — **Look 1:** *Leather trench with brushed silver trims with cut and sew button through bodice midi dress.*

A spectrum of ochres and browns with highlights of dirty pinks and teals. This story began with the investigation of artists’ sketch books and the beauty and surprise found in the artistic process. The silhouettes feel voluminous and sleek.

This was the inspiration for the Wear Masks Whenever Possible print that has been used in this collection. The investigation of concepts in art seems to bring about so much creativity and freedom, and I feel that this can be translated to fashion.

Texture and color also informed this collection quite heavily. Autumnal colours inspired by the Australian bush gave me a strong color palette to work with, and from that the muted collection has formed.

The garments are functional and elegant, and they can take you from day to night. The attention to detail elevates the garments and makes you feel like you are discovering even after buying. The color cues came from lots of black and ivory with pops of blush, burnt orange and teal.

Inspiration & Key Shapes

Key shapes:

Oversized textural coats and suiting. Leather trenches, smart blazers, drapey bottoms, chunky knits. Colors include burnt oranges, browns, black and ivory with a hint of metallic and camel.

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Croquis

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Selected Tech Drawings

*Pinstripe cropped cotton shirt with full sleeves. Sleeves to have an option of 12cm turn up to make 3/4 length.*

*Flared high waisted pant with contrast piping at front and back pocket in grosgrain.*

*Cropped dip dye sleeve fluffly knit with thick cross stitch detail at cuff, hem, armhole and neckline. Extra long sleeves 70cm.*

*Cut and sew t-shirt dress with drop shoulder and button through bodice.*

*Quilted padded overcoat, to finish at mid calf. Darts to create shaping. Externally stitched pockets. Coat to be lined in silk satin.*

*Double breasted long line blazer with exaggerated 70’s collar. 22mm button to be at self covered. Collar to be in contrast grosgrain.*

*Wide sleeve leather trench. Fully lined with brushed sliver buckle and eyelets.*

*Exposed zip front leather pant. To be high waisted and have a cigarette style leg.*

Take me to Teshima

Spring / Summer

About this collection

Look 1: Lightweight silk drawstring chiffon dress; knitted houndstooth slip dress. — **Look 1:** *Lightweight silk drawstring chiffon dress; knitted houndstooth slip dress.*

Weightless dresses, netting, colour, and denims. This collection was inspired by the Island of Teshima — in particular the work of Rei Naito and the installations which show a sense of hope by exploring how humans coexist with the colors and sounds of nature.

This collection is particularly inspired by Teshima, a fishing island in the south of Japan that has been turned into an art island. Having travelled to the island in 2018 I was in awe of the simplicity and serenity of the work of Rei Naito contrasted by the day to day life of the Japanese fishing village. Take me to Teshima is a laid-back-luxe collection with weightless dresses with details of intricate embroidery contrasted by metallics and technical fabrics. The color palette includes pale blues, ivory, denim, yellows with a hint of red and metallic to add depth.

The collection is about natural ease and feeling comfortable and feminine in floaty fabrics. Knits and netting add texture and color. I have designed these garments so that they can be worn layered together or fit seamlessly into your wardrobe.